We're spending the night at Kiva Koffeehouse, which I can't recommend highly enough if you're out in the boondocks. It's in one of those canyons that are harsh scrub brush on the sides, and a beautiful green rivers of trees and lush vegetation on the canyon floor, often/usually fed by some river or stream. Last night we ended up at Cathedral Gorge State Park in Nevada: easy camping, free firewood, nice warm showers (five minutes for a quarter).
Right now there's a ton of thunderstorms over the mountains from here. But once we crested those mountains this afternoon, the sun was out again and the temperature jumped 20-30 degrees, in an instant environment change from mountains to high desert. Maybe it's the hot air in the canyon, but something is keeping the storms themselves away from us, even though we can see the lights and smell the ozone. I'm writing this using the coffeehouse's free wireless, at 10pm MDT, out in the desert. Life is good.
I have some great pictures, but they'll wait until I'm at the aikido camp with hopefully better net access.
My mood's been up and down. I'm not feeling particularly resilient (unfortunate, given my traveling companion), and I'm finding I'm spacing out at the end of the day. On the other hand, today during the day was mostly perfect, with a good breakfast in Cedar City, and the woman at Bryce Canyon National Park managed to upgrade my accidentally-bought Yosemite pass to a full national park pass, saving me $40. Little things.
Bed soon. We have time to kill now--only 350 miles to go before sunday evening.